Leather Industry Glossary
Leather Industry Glossary - A
collection of frequently used terms, abbreviations and jargons used in
the Leather Industry with their definition and meanings.
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Paddles A name applied to certain types of machinery with
rotating arms, which are used in various tanning operations for
agitating hides or skins in process. Use more water than drums, allowing
larger floats and consequently gentler action. Mostly used in the
soaking and liming areas.
Painting A process for loosening hair or wool (usually the
latter) which is employed with skins whose protective covering is so
valuable as to make it desirable to avoid injuring it by soaking in a
lime liquor. The process is carried out by painting the flesh side of a
skin with a depilatory substance, containing sodium sulphide or arsenic.
Nowadays this is the usual method with sheepskins bearing the higher
grades of wool. Before it was invented, such skins were usually dehaired
by sweating.
Parchment See Pergamum.
Pasting A method of drying where wet leather is pasted onto a
glass or steel plate and then allowed to dry in controlled conditions -
often a tunnel with various chambers adjusted to fit the planned removal
of moisture. Most used with side leather. Holds the area well, but if
not well retanned the leather can feel hard and empty. There is a danger
of the paste damaging the grain or interfering with the finish. US
tanners are most skilled in this drying method.
Pelt This word means, strictly speaking, any kind of skin
(Latin pellis, related to the German felle, a skin, and the English word
fell, now preserved only in fellmonger). The word is somewhat loosely
used in the leather industry, but its only common applications nowadays
are to sheepskins in two or three slightly differing senses: to the skin
proper, to distinguish it from the wool that grows on it; to dewooled
sheepskins, as a pickled pelt or a fellmongered; or in some countries to
a woolskin bearing the shortest recognised staple.
Pergamum Town near Izmir (Smyrna) in Asia Minor. Parchment
(from Latin "carta Pergamena") supposedly first made there in
3rd cent BC. When the King of Pergamus was building a great library in
rivalry with the library of the King of Egypt in Alexandria, the latter
placed an embargo on the exportation of papyrus from Egypt to hamper
competition. The King of Pergamus thereupon perfected the manufacture of
parchment for the making of books.
A more comprehensive discussion of this is given by the Koninklijke
Bibliotheek.Since it is very interesting I quote from their website:
Parchment was used chiefly for writing, first on a scroll - as is still
the case in Israel - and from the second century BC onwards in book
form. To make a book, the rectangular cut sheets might be folded one or
more times. The skins of sheep and goats from the areas round the
Mediterranean were rarely more than 50 cm long by 40 cm wide. In
northern regions we find larger skins and also calfskins being used to
make books. The term pergamena is first used in the Edict of Diocletian
(301 AD); until that time the term membrana had been used. It is
generally accepted that the use of a new term indicates a new or
modified product, but so little is known about the parchment of those
days that it is impossible to say with any certainty whether this was
the case here.
One of our few informants about pre-Christian times is the (unreliable)
Roman historian Pliny. He writes that the king of Pergamon (in
present-day Turkey), Eumenes II (197-159 BC), was forced to look for
alternative writing materials when the import of papyrus from Egypt was
suspended. This is supposed to have led to the invention of parchment.
Although parchment had been known at least eight hundred years before
this date, Pergamon did have a reputation for good quality parchment in
classical antiquity. The great change occurred around the fourth century
AD, when people started manufacturing parchment using lime water. Until
the fourth century skins were mostly treated with salt, flour and other
vegetable products that were used to remove the hairs and to prepare the
skin. The lime water method may have been introduced by Jews and Arabs
to Spain in the early Middle Ages, after which it spread throughout the
rest of Europe. Jewish parchment was lightly tanned on the surface with
vegetable tannins. Another technique, the splitting of skins, was also
known to the Jews and Arabs, even before the Middle Ages. In the West
the traditional procedure to obtain the required thickness was to shave
the full skin.
Formulas and depictions of parchment manufacturing have come down to
us, especially from the late Middle Ages. There is considerable
correspondencebetween these mediaeval formulas and those used by modern
parchment makers, and even the processing and tools have not changed
fundamentally. For the most part, parchment manufacture is still a
matter of handwork.
Picker Leather The picker is the mechanism on either side of a
power loom that throws the sharp pointed shuttle and receives it again
as it is thrown back. For arming this mechanism, long experience has
found nothing equal to a special, very tough leather, usually rawhide -
either cattle or buffalo. Such picker leather is made extensively in the
North of England and in parts of the USA, partly from native cattle
hides and partly from imported buffalo hides.
Pickling A preliminary process for preparing hides and skins
for tanning, largely by adjusting the pH with acid and controlling the
swelling with salt. It is also use as stable way of holding material,
after unhairing, for transport between plants and countries and for
trading.
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